Which BCD is the best for you?
If you’re having trouble choosing a BCD, there are quite a few factors to consider:

1. Consider your body type: You need a scuba BCD that fits well because this device will give you the support you need in the water.  For instance, if you have a large frame, bulk won’t be an issue when you’re choosing a scuba BCD. However, if you are petite, you’d be better off with a compact scuba BCD. Consider the length of your scuba BCD. You don’t want one that extends too far down because it will make removing your weights more difficult. Choose a model that fits snugly and doesn’t ride up your body or one that has a customizable fit.
2. Balanced Power Inflator (BPI) vs. Alternate Air Source (AAS): All BCD’s come with a BPI installed standard. Using a BPI necessitates the need for an Octopus as the back up 2nd stage. The benefit of an AAS is that the back up 2nd stage is built into the inflator. This means, in addition to inflating and deflating the BCD, it also serves as your Safe 2nd. It also eliminates the need for a dedicated Octopus and removes one hose from your regulator. The industry has been slowly moving away from Octopus’s and towards AAS’s.
3. Weight Integration: The vast majority of BCD’s produced today include a weight integration system. This allows the weights to be inserted into the BCD, thus eliminating the need for a weight belt that can hurt your hips. Soft lead pouches are used instead of hard lead bricks, which eliminates skin pinching. Overall, weight integration is far more comfortable and practical than Weight Belts.
4. Style: We don’t mean how it looks! We mean how it functions. All BCD’s fall into one of 3 style designs. Each has it’s own benefits and drawbacks. The right BCD style for you is determined by the type of diving you do.

Jacket-Style BCD

Example of a Jacket-Style BCD: Scubapro Classic
The Jacket-Style BCD consists of a wearable sleeveless jacket into which an air bladder is integrated that wraps around and inflates in front, on the sides and behind the diver.

Due to this feature, the Jacket-Style BCD offers the most lift of any BCD. The jacket-style BCD is very comfortable, provides ample pockets for storage, and is commonly found with pouches for weight integration which replaces the need for a independent weight belt. Jacket BCDs are extremely stable in all positions in the water. The only drawbacks to this style BCD are that, because it is donned like a “jacket”, it can be uncomfortable to get in and out of. Also, it must be sized correctly because adjusting it to the wearer is somewhat limited.

Front-Adjustable/Hybrid BCD

Example of a Front-Adjustable/Hybrid BCD: Aqualung Axiom, Scubapro Glide
The Front-Adjustable or Hybrid is perhaps the most common type of BCD among divers for the last 20 years. Sometimes (erroneously) called a “jacket” BCD, the types and configurations of this kind of BCD are numerous. The basic premise of this BCD is that the bladder wraps around and inflates on the sides and behind the diver, leaving straps in the front for fine adjustments. The Front-Adjustable/Hybrid is described as “the best of both worlds” in terms of recreational BCD design. The innovative hybrid air bladder design allows less front clutter than the Jacket-Style unit and the flat horizontal diving position you get from a back inflated BCD. However, the unique design allows you a more relaxed and comfortable vertical orientation when you find yourself in that position (kneeling on the bottom or on the surface). The Front-Adjustable/Hybrid is the most popular choice for recreational divers all over the world. The only drawback to this style of BCD is the loss of front inflation, resulting in less lift and a slight tilt forwards when floating on the surface.

Back Inflate BCD

The back inflate BCD only has an air bladder on the back, leaving the diver’s chest area uncluttered. Back inflate BCD’s are known for how great they are at positioning the diver in the more flat horizontal position in the water. Most divers strive for good horizontal positioning (trim). Being in a nice horizontal position is very streamlined with the diver having less resistance moving in the water while swimming; this reduces workload and helps to prolong your air supply. Like the majority of modern BCD’s today they are virtually all weight integrated, eliminating the need for a cumbersome weight belt. The drawback to this style of BCD is that the lack of inflation on the front and sides of the diver causes the air cell to push the diver forward when floating on the surface. While this may not be an issue for experienced divers, or those who spend little time on the surface, it can pose a significant problem and uncomfortable position for newer divers.

At American Divers International, we pride ourselves on making sure the life-support equipment you purchase fits your needs and is comfortable. As with any purchase, you are always welcome to jump in our heated pool and try out different equipment before you buy it!

“Local” Dive Trips
Scuba Diving off the South-East coast of Florida is considered to be some of the best diving in the U.S.!

Why do we drive 2 hours to dive off Pompano and Jupiter?

40 miles of beautiful reef stretch from Miami to Jupiter, as close as 1/4th of a mile from shore. This means the boat rides are short, the water is warm year-round (thanks to the Gulf Steam), and there are literally hundreds of ship wrecks. What’s not to love!?

Why don’t we dive more locally; Cape Canaveral, Cocoa Beach, Sebastian?
 

The diving off of Brevard County is sub-par at best. The reef is 15-20 miles off shore, which can translate to a 2 hour boat ride just to get to the dive site. Because of the time and fuel needed to take divers out to the reef, Dive Charter services are non-existant. Additionally, the water conditions are not generally ideal for recreational diving. Very poor visibility, strong currents, and drastic thermoclines are the ‘norm’ off Brevard’s coast.
 

Ok, you’ve convinced me. So how do I book a dive trip?

It can be difficult or daunting to book a dive trip on your own, especially if you’ve never dove with a particular charter. Have no fear, ADI is here!
 

We have long-standing relationships with all of the Dive Charters that we use, and receive a great rate for booking with them, which makes the trips less expensive for you, our customer!
 

The boats we use go out daily and we do all of the work for you. All you need to do is contact us 48 hours before the day you want to dive and we will book your slot on the boat, arrange for rental gear and tanks, and give you directions to the boat. Then all you have to do is go and enjoy your dives!
 

• 2-tank dive trips start at $75. Tanks and equipment are not included
• Certification must be present 
• All divers are required to have a signal marker buoy. Please make sure you stop in to pick one up before your dive.
• Dive trips are non-refundable, unless the boat trip is cancelled due to weather.

Like laptops and smart phones and other electronic devices, there are a lot of good dive computers to choose from.  They all can be counted on to do the basics – monitor depth and bottom time, track nitrogen loading and calculate decompression, so the computer you end up with should be the computer that offers the design, features and functions that suit your personal style.

Some divers like screens packed with information, others like a simple layout with data distributed over a number of screens.  Some divers like colors and graphics, others like to keep it clean and sleek.  Some divers like to keep their diving casual and have no need for advanced multi-gas mix capabilities, others like as much technology packed into their computers as they can get.  It’s all good, it’s all available, it just depends on what you want.   So once you find the personal dive computer that works for you, what do you do with it?

 
Aqualung Computer Videos

Manuals

Care & Maintenance

Scubapro A1

Scubapro A2

Scubapro HUD

Scubapro HUD 2

Scubapro G2

Manuals

Firmware Updates

Care & Maintenance

Which MASK is best for you?
The mask is, by far, without a doubt, the single most important piece of equipment you will ever buy. It is the window to the underwater world and if it leaks on you, you will be miserable. Trust us, we know from experience!

Finding the right mask for you is no simple feat; every person’s face is shaped differently. It is imperative that you allow a professional assist you in finding the mask that fits you properly.

At ADI, we have a very simple Mask Guarantee: We believe that you need an expert to help you find the right mask for you, so if you allow us to fit the mask to your face, we’ll guarantee the fit of that mask for as long as you own it (If you step on it and break it, that’s a different story). We don’t care if it starts leaking on your very first dive, or you 100th. We’ll replace the mask or give you your money make. It’s that important to you as a diver, so it’s that important to us.

So in this case, forget about brands. Forget about bells and whistles. Let us help you find the mask that fits you. That is ALL that matters!

Which LIGHT is best for you?
Bright, brighter, brightest. Day or night, a dive light helps when peeking around coral or viewing inside a wreck.
It’s obvious that a dive light is necessary to scuba dive at night to help you navigate, see your gauges, and observe interesting aquatic life. But it’s also a good idea to carry a light during the day to peer inside wrecks, see under ledges and light up caverns. You’ll use it on all your scuba diving adventures to look into the cracks and crevices where shy creatures hide.

Standard Features

• Rugged case that is watertight and pressure proof.Tovatec’s Safety Valve
• A dependable switch that is easy to turn on and off, even when wearing gloves.
• Watertight o-ring seal(s) that give you access to the batteries and the bulb.
• Many lights come with a wrist lanyard or clip so that, even if you accidentally let go, the light is retrievable.

Dive Light Styles

Primary lights are generally large models with powerful, wide beams, however, you can also find very bright small lights. Backup lights are usually smaller with narrower beams – something you might Tovatec 3600 lumen Lightcarry on every dive and definitely on night dives so you don’t end up without a light if your primary light fails.

Optional Features

• Batteries are either rechargeable or disposable.
  • Initially, rechargeable systems cost more, but will pay for themselves if you use your dive light often and are a better choice environmentally.
  • High-quality disposable batteries are great for a dive light you only use occasionally.
• Bulbs and battery power influence a light’s brightness.
  • Halogen and xenon bulbs produce bright light but consume a lot of battery power.
  • LED (light emitting diode) bulbs are highly durable and energy efficient.
  • HID (high intensity discharge) bulbs provide twice as much light from half as much battery.
• A handle or mount allows you to comfortably carry your light either in your hand or attached to your dive equipment. Some small lights mount on your mask, your wrist, a hose, your camera strobe or anywhere else you can think of to mount a light.
• Multiple power modes are available in some lights to make the best use of battery power.
• For night diving, divers also use underwater strobes or other small marker lights for safety.

How to Choose

• Decide where you’ll likely use your light the most an how often. Then think about how diligent you’ll be taking care of the batteries.
• Pick up and carry a few lights around. It’s best if they have batteries in them, but realize that they’ll be lighter in the water.
• Evaluate the grip for your hand.
• Test how easy it is for you to turn it on and off.
• Think about how comfortable it will be to hold the light for an hour-long night dive.
• Consider other special features, such as included lanyards or multiple power modes, and then choose the best light for your dive needs. Get a good light – you won’t regret it.

Maintenance
Empty and rinse your dive bag after each use, and allow it to thoroughly dry before storing.

How to choose a Dive Cylinder:

Which Tank is right for me?

Most people learn to dive using an 80 or 63 cubic foot Aluminum tank. But there are many other options when it comes to scuba cylinders.

Which cylinder is best for you depends on a few factors:

• Are you naturally negatively or positively buoyant? (do you sink easily in a pool or do you float?)
• How is your air consumption? (do you breath through a tank quickly?)
• Are you using a lot of lead while diving? (more than 12-14lbs in the ocean?)
• Are you planning on becoming a Technical Diver? (Cave, Trimix, Heliox?)

Let’s start by talking about some basic information about cylinders.

Material: All scuba tanks are made of either Aluminum or Steel. Both metals have pros and cons associated with them when used for scuba diving.

Pro’s of Aluminum Cylinders:

• Less expensive than Steel tanks and therefore;Al 80 Scuba Tank
• More readily available for purchase and rental
• Available in a variety of colors

Con’s of Aluminum Cylinders

• Tend to become positively buoyant towards the end of the dive when the cylinder is emptier.
• Due to the thickness of the aluminum, 80 cuft cylinders actually hold 77.4 cuft of air instead of true 80 cuft.

Pro’s of Steel Cylinders:

• More air for the same amount of weightSteel Scuba Tank
• Steel doesn’t become buoyant at the end of dives
• Potentially, the diver does not need to carry as much lead

Con’s of Steel Cylinders:

• Substantially more expensive than Aluminum

Size and Pressure Ratings of Cylinders:

There are many different sizes of tanks, each with different pressure ratings. Finding the right ones for you is based on experience and the type of diving you’ll be doing:

• Aluminum 63 cuft = 3000 psi
• Aluminum 80 cuft = 3000 psi
• High Pressure Steel 80 cuft = 3442 psi
• Aluminum 100 cuft = 3300 psi
• High Pressure Steel 100 cuft = 3442 psi
• Low Pressure Steel 120 cuft = 2400 psi
• High Pressure Steel 120 cuft = 3442 psi

Other factors to consider when purchasing tanks:

• Dive cylinders require maintenance. There are two inspections that must be completed on all cylinders in order for them to be filled.
  • Visual Plus – A yearly visual inspection to check for corrosion on both the internal surface and external surface of the cylinder. For Aluminum tanks, an eddy current test is also required.
  • Hydrostatic – This inspect is require every 5 years. This test measures the expansion of the cylinder while under pressure.Scuba Tanks
• Painted tanks may look pretty at first, but rarely stay that way. Salt penetrates the painted surface of most tanks causing a bulge under the paint. During inspection, that paint must be chipped off to ensure that the salt can be cleaned off and hasn’t comprised the integrity of the metal. The tanks cannot be repainted, however, leaving your tank with many bare spots without paint.
• Steel tanks are no substitute for poor buoyancy – It takes most people time and experience diving to fine-tune their buoyancy skills, which allows them to reduce the amount of lead they are diving with. Newer divers also tend to breath heavily and it takes them time to learn how to control their air consumption. Often times, newer divers are encouraged to switch to steel tanks in order to kill two birds with one stone: reduce the amount of lead they are carrying, and also have more air at their disposal. While this sounds good in theory, the reality is that steel tanks can then become a crutch of divers and can discourage the development of proper streamlining and breathing techniques. Additionally, if a diver becomes accustomed to diving with steel tanks, without the proper buoyancy skills and then travels to an area that does not have steel tanks for rent, this could impact their ability to dive comfortably.

Renting vs Buying:

One more consideration regarding tanks is Renting them versus Buying them. Which is more economical? The answer to that question is: It depends on how often you are diving. When you combine the price of the required cylinder inspections and the price for each fill, in most cases renting a cylinder is more economical because the shop then handles the inspections and your rental already includes the fill. On the other hand, owning your own tanks can be beneficial if you are doing a lot of diving (15 or more dives per year), if you are leaving the dock outside of dive shop hours, or if you are diving off your own boat.

If you do decide to purchase a new scuba tank, check with ADI first!

We’ll give you free air fills for a year if you purchase a cylinder from us!

;

44 years ago, DJ Morin had a vision. His entire life, DJ was fascinated by the ocean and after becoming a Scuba Instructor and retiring from the military, he and his ever-supportive wife, Edith, decided to take a run-down dive shop and try to build it into a business that could support their family.

Having literally grown up inside American Divers International, this store has always held a very special place in my heart. 3 generations of my family have worked here. I witnessed the genius of my father as a salesman and the dedication and hard work of my mother in the back office. Through the scuba boom of the 80’s and 90’s, their business flourished and afterwards it continued to grow by their passion and sheer will. 

As my parents reached retirement age, my wife and I decided to leave careers in education to keep the family legacy alive. We jumped in feet first and did our best to provide the same level of customer service and support to our local dive community.

Unfortunately, times have changed. With the advent of online shopping, retail businesses of all types have suffered. Sadly, American Divers International is not immune to these changes. We simply cannot exist without our customers purchasing products from us.

So, it is with an extremely heavy heart that Becky and I must announce the permanent closing of American Divers International effective February15^th. 2025.

Effective immediately:

·        ADI will no longer offer certification courses.

·        ADI will no longer accept equipment for service.

·        ADI will no longer provide equipment for rental.

·        If you have previously brought in equipment for Service, you will need to pick up your equipment before February 1^st. Any equipment left unclaimed after that  date  will be sold to recover the cost of the servicing.

We will be selling all inventory and pretty much anything else that isn’t nailed down!

It has been my families’ honor to have served the local diving community for so long. Thank you to all of you who have supported us.

Sincerely,

Jeff and Becky Morin

Which FINS are best for you?
Flipper

They are called Fins.

Flipper was a dolphin. 

With the exception of the mask, Fins are by far the most personal of all your equipment. It’s not possible to look at a pair of fins and say, “these will work”, without trying them first. To do otherwise can often result in cramping and blistering. ADI does not recommend buying a pair of fins without trying them first. Trust us, your feet will thank you.

The right fins provide a balance of propulsion, control and comfort, while the wrong ones can cause cramps and increase air consumption. With so many styles, finding the perfect match can be overwhelming. Here’s a quick guide…

Generally speaking, full pocket or full foot fin are for snorkelers and open heel fins are for divers.

The full foot fin –

It fits like a shoe, so it is important that it is a good fit. The open heel is designed like a slipper with a strap. The foot slides into a pocket, and a strap goes over the heel that holds it in place. This type of a fin is worn with booties made of neoprene.Seawing Nova Full Foot Fin

The full foot fin when properly fitted allows for a more efficient transfer of power from the legs to the fin. However, a poor fit can lead to blisters, and you could even lose your fin along the way. Additionally, the full foot fin is not recommended for cold water diving because your bare foot would be exposed.

The open heel fin –

More popular even in warm water diving locations. Fin manufacturers reflect this belief in that they offer more different models in the open heel version. While the foot pocket must still be a good fit, the compression of the neoprene in the boot means that the fit is not as critical as with the full foot design.

Jet Sport FinsYou could also change the thickness of your boots if you are diving in waters of different temperatures. As mentioned before the full heel is touted as a tropical water fin, many divers still prefer the extra protection the booties give over the bare foot.
There are, basically, two fin blade styles: the paddle and the split fin. In recent years, some fin manufacturers included a subclass of the paddle as a modified paddle.

Paddle Blade Fin –

The paddle fin is the most common style of blades and is the same as they were 50 years ago at first glance. While the materials have changed and small design changes have resulted in remarkably improved efficiency, the blade is a solid piece that connects back to the foot pocket.Scubapro JetFin

The paddle design works to propel you through the water with a fin that is relatively inflexible or stiff. The stiffer the fin, the more effort is needed to get started. While they do require the most muscle, they provide good power.

The Modified Paddle Blade Fin-

Modified paddles do not have the blade extending the full width back to the foot pocket. Different designs have cut outs close to the foot that reduces effort on the upward kick. Using various materials over the different areas of the fin allows a more flexible fin that is more efficient.

The Split Fin –

Twin Jet FinsThe split fin is a design that is relatively new, and many divers swear they are the best that happened to humankind since the invention of light. The blade is very flexible and is split down the center. As you move the fin through the water, it acts more like a propeller than a paddle. The flexibility of the fins creates a stream of water like a vortex of a propeller or the force of a jet.

Straps & Buckles –

Basic straps need adjusting each time you wear the fins.

Quick release buckles let you un-clip the strap without loosening it, for easier fin removal. 

Spring or bungee clips mean you can simply pull the strap over your heel.

Spring Straps

They are comfortable, quick, and can be fitted to most fins.

Always carry spares, because a broken strap will render your fins useless!

Reading about the different types and styles of fins is great. But until you actually try them in the water, there is no way to know if any particular fin will work for you.

At American Divers International, we pride ourselves on making sure the life-support equipment you purchase fits your needs and is comfortable. As with any purchase, you are always welcome to jump in our heated pool and try out different equipment before you buy it!

Scuba Diving is an extremely safe sport. Reliable equipment and exceptional training standards have paved the way for people to explore the depths safely and responsibly. But make no mistake, any time you are diving you are immersing yourself in an environment in which you are not designed to survive. Therefore, Scuba Diving Equipment is Life-Support Equipment. If one were inclined to jump out of an airplane, that person would most likely want to know who packed their parachute (and most would insist on doing it themselves) and when it was last used and maintained. The smart ones would not buy a parachute on E-Bay and then use it for their jump. And yet, Scuba Divers have a false sense of safety when it comes to Scuba Equipment. Many believe that Uncle Joe’s regulator that he bought used 27 years ago, that hasn’t been in the water in 25 years, will work just fine. Frequent and Periodic Servicing of your Life-Support Equipment is of the utmost importance to ensure your dives are not only fun, but safe!

The vast majority of diving accidents occur as a result of poorly maintained equipment.
The most important thing we can tell you about ADI’s Service Department is our technicians, combined, have over 50 years experience preparing and maintaining life support equipment.

We can repair equipment from the following manufacturers: Scubapro (Subgear, Uwatec) Aqualung (U.S. Divers, Apex, Seaquest) Sherwood

Scubamax

Jeff Morin

Hometown: Merritt Island, Florida

Current Career: Owner of American Divers International

Past Careers: USAF, Middle School Band/Orchestra Director

When did you start diving?: I learned to dive in 1984, when I was the ripe old age of 8. That was back before there were rules on how old you had to be to start diving.

What’s your most memorable dive?: Diving the Hydroatlantic Wreck in South Florida is one of my most favorite dives. It’s a huge ship in very deep water. Because it’s a natural wreck, it just has a different feel to it than most wrecks down there, and it’s been there so long that there is a ton of life on it.

Where is the most exotic place you’ve dove?: I’d have to say our recent trip to Saba is the most exotic so far. It’s not your typical “Carribean Island” in that there are no sandy beaches and no throngs of tourists! It’s a quaint little island that caters to divers. All around a great experience!

What’s on your Diving Bucket List?: I am looking forward to being able to dive in the Galapagos Islands. The sheer amount of life that you are constantly surrounded by while there is mind-blowing to me. And the high chances of encountering whale sharks is a nice bonus!

Favorite hobby outside of diving: I am a saxophonist (actually have a degree in music) so I like to play blues and jazz when I can. I also ride my motorcycle…a lot!

Jeff has, quite literally, grown up at ADI. His parents, D.J. and Edith opened ADI back in 1980 when he was 4 years old. So he has been in and around the scuba diving industry for 30+ years! The opportunity to take over the family business came at the perfect time for Jeff and his wife, Becky, and allows ADI to continue to serve the diving community for decades to come!